The quaint charms of Bario

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The quaint charms of Bario

New Straits Times, Jul 18, 2010

by Nancy Nais

IF there's a place in Malaysian Borneo that really reflects the lifestyle of the local people, their existence and legacy, it's Bario.

The Northern Highlands of Bario is dominated by the Kelabit tribe and small groups from the Penan tribe (the only nomadic tribe in Sarawak now) scattered here and there.

The unofficial capital of the Kelabit Highlands, Bario has a population of about 5,000 people and it is isolated from the rest of the world.

The best way to get to Bario is by plane. It is an hour's trip on MasWing's 19-seater twin Otter plane from Miri.

On days when passengers are few, the plane will be laden with goods such as cooking oil and electronic gadgets sent to those in Bario by family members in Miri.

Other items include rice, canned food, home appliances and sacks of sugar.

The items get piled onto empty seats, along the aisle, at your feet, in the holding compartment and even in the nose of the plane.

To ensure the plane is not overloaded, passengers have to stand on weighing scales at the Miri airport checking counter.

Another way to go to Bario is by the four-wheel-drive. This will take a day.

Despite its remoteness, there is an airport in Bario, as well as Internet access and computer services, a police station, two schools, churches, a clinic, shops and various offices.

The longhouses in Bario are occupied by the elderly and very young. The rest have moved elsewhere.

Three things this highland is famous for are rice, salt and pineapple. The Kelabit community is known for its agriculture, mainly growing Bario rice.

Bario's fragrant rice enjoys a price premium compared with other rice varieties from around the country.