http://thestaronline.com/news/story.asp?file=/2006/3/2/southneast/13472791&sec=southneast
Thursday March 2, 2006
Land of friendly Kelabits
By Harlina Samson
BARIO, which means “wind” in Kelabit, is a remote plateau in Sarawak's northeast that stands at about 1,150m above sea level. Almost entirely surrounded by densely forested highlands, some rising to as high as 2,400m above sea level including Sarawak's highest peak Mount Murud, the air over Bario is always cool.
The temperature ranges between 16°C and 25°C.
However on some occasions it can dip to as low as 11°C and it is advisable to wear some warm clothing as it can be very “unpleasant” as the evening approaches.
Bario is about 50 minutes by air from Miri or 40 minutes from Marudi.
Malaysia Airlines, via its Rural Air Service, operates nine flights a week to Bario from Miri and Marudi, using the 19-seater Twin Otter aircraft.
Another way to reach this valley of the highlands is a tortuous journey through leech and mosquito infested jungles from Marudi, Bario's closest town or Ba'Kelalan, which is about 60km away.
Bario is about 50 minutes by air from Miri or 40 minutes from Marudi.
The Bario plateau is the home of the highly industrious Kelabits and the source of the highly popular, sweet aroma and high fibre Bario rice apart from the area's “signature” sweet and sugary pineapples.
A brief stay in a longhouse in Pa' Bangar, owned by Mustapha Raja, will give you some insight into a Kelabit family's daily routine.
Mustapha's son Abdul Halim, 30, said despite Bario's remoteness and under development, the Kelabits are happy and contented with the valley's natural beauty and feel that it should not be disturbed.
“It may be a land of hardship as there are no proper roads ... we have an unsurfaced route which is only good enough for light motorised vehicles, enabling the people to reach the schools, shops and airstrip as well as areas as far as Pa' Umor and Pa' Ukat,” he said.
Basic amenities are available in this valley.
There are two schools, a clinic, an immigration office and a police station manned by skeleton staff as well as 12 shops, a wet market and food stalls.
There are three pay phones that can be used during emergencies – one at the airstrip and the other two at a shop and the secondary school. There is also a public phone that can only receive calls.
There is no public transport in Bario, pick-up trucks are used to transport goods while motorcycles are the preferred choice among locals.
Visitors can feel the warmth and friendliness exuding from the Kelabits the moment they land at the Bario airstrip.
The Kelabits are one of the state's 26 ethnic groups.
Some 1,500 of the 6,000 Kelabits in Sarawak are living in Bario.
Those living in Bario are from the older generation, easily recognisable as they bear the traditional Kelabit tattoos, elongated and pierced earlobes as well as heavy brass or hornbill ivory earrings.
The Kelabits live in individual houses or longhouses in 17 villages and most of them plant padi, pineapples, pumpkins, beans and other tropical fruits.
They are also good hunters and fishermen.
Bario's strongpoint, apart from its natural beauty, is the friendliness and hospitality of the Kelabits, making the valley a “must visit” place for tourists in Sarawak.
